In our 10 months here, Gilad and I have continued to see the value South Korea places upon the lives of animals and this past weekend after a trip to the pet store, my frustrations are no longer able to be contained.
As most know we adopted two dogs from a shelter that was closing. The woman who had this "shelter" (it is really just a greenhouse) kept all the dogs, cared for all the dogs, and paid for all the expenses out of her own pocket (with the help of volunteers too). This is not a government run shelter as in Korea I'm not sure if there is such a thing, besides the 10 day kill shelters. Yes, that is the best deal you can get. A shelter that will keep the animals for a whole 10 days before they euthinize them. One can only wonder why there are hoards of homeless animals on the streets with a deal like that. When we found the puppy in the mountains we had absolutely no alternative but to bring it home. What is the point of saving a dog only to have it be killed a few days later? It is not just the large amount of homeless animals that is disturbing but also just the general treatment and idea behind what an animal life is worth. Pets here are treated like toys. Buy one now, get tired of it, get rid of it. Or, buy a cute little baby and dress it up so it looks like a doll. Whatever happened to a dog being a dog? Why must it resemble some fantasy creature?
Gilad and I were looking for collars for our dogs and so this past weekend we strolled into a few pet stores, and we became sick at the sight. There were tons of animals stuck is small cages and filthy living conditions. Huge dogs living in a space so small they cannot stand or turn around. Or how about the puppies so young that they couldn't even walk yet. They had no mother with them to help them, so rather they were just dragging themselves with their front legs leaving their back legs limply following along. Then there was the tiny kitten who barely knew how to clean itself (a natural instinct) sitting with a tin can of food that could easily cut it while eating.
Sorry if the sound of all this is depressing, but no joke, this is something you see here daily. It is absolutely depressing because the mistreatment comes in such a huge quantity that it leaves you feeling hopeless. There is help out there, mostly coming from foreigners or native volunteers, however it is not nearly enough.
Dawna
Monday, June 30, 2008
Sunday, June 29, 2008
South America
Whether you've heard about it or not, Dawna and I plan to travel back to South America in 2010. This is a tentative date... we have no exact dates or anything. It might not even happen in 2010 but that's the goal for now.
Even though we're still in South Korea and have yet to restart our lives in Canada, we're very eager and excited to get the ball rolling on this awesome project.
We love South America... the culture... the people... the language... everything. We're not alone, either. Through several discussions with many of our friends in Canada, we've learned of the importance of an extended trip to this continent. The beauty of this project is that we're certain it won't just be Dawna and I on this trip. As a result, we decided to create another blog that will be dedicated to this South America project. Through this website we hope to:
1. Update everyone on how this trip is beginning to shape up and how contacts/locations are becoming established.
2. Get our friends and others excited and entice them to join us.
3. Update the rest of the world, from South America, when we're actually there in 2+ years.
So visit this blog for now. It's in its baby phase but it will grow... for sure.
- Gilad
Even though we're still in South Korea and have yet to restart our lives in Canada, we're very eager and excited to get the ball rolling on this awesome project.
We love South America... the culture... the people... the language... everything. We're not alone, either. Through several discussions with many of our friends in Canada, we've learned of the importance of an extended trip to this continent. The beauty of this project is that we're certain it won't just be Dawna and I on this trip. As a result, we decided to create another blog that will be dedicated to this South America project. Through this website we hope to:
1. Update everyone on how this trip is beginning to shape up and how contacts/locations are becoming established.
2. Get our friends and others excited and entice them to join us.
3. Update the rest of the world, from South America, when we're actually there in 2+ years.
So visit this blog for now. It's in its baby phase but it will grow... for sure.
- Gilad
Saturday, June 28, 2008
How time goes on
So just the other day, one of the ECC teachers left and a new one came. It is amazing because Mallessa to us was still considered the new teacher. How she managed to come here, complete six months, and the leave, without us realizing it, was quite a surprise. Time these days is just flying by and it is hard to keep track.
There is nothing like standing in an apartment that has hosted 3 different teachers at your school. In Parkland there are 2 apartments for the teachers. When we arrived Amy lived in one and Abbi lived in the other. Then they left and Alex moved into Abbi's and Mallessa into Amy's. Now once again, they both have left and it is Michael and Patrick who are there now. Standing in Patrick's apartment and thinking of the others who lived there was actually very humbling in the sense that time just doesn't ever stop. It goes quicker each day and well, you really have to be careful with the way you use it!
Mallessa's going away party was on Friday, and we found this to be the perfect opportunity to spend a night with our coworkers. We have really started to become a lot closer to the Korean teachers, and well as Friday night was happening I realized how much I would miss them. We went to the seafood bbp restaurant AGAIN haha, and spent from 10-2 just having an awesome time (by the end the crowd withered down to half of the Korean teachers, me, Gilad and Patrick - who was extremely jet lagged haha). Then we went to the makali bar after that and just talked and talked and talked. I really do regret not making more of an effort to get together outside of work because when it comes down to it, we all get along so well! We did try, unsuccessfully a few times, but maybe we should have tried harder. No matter now though because we are trying to use our time wisely for the next 7 weeks we are here! Like I said, time is just flying and well, sometimes I forget that I am even here because home feels so close.
_____Dawna________
There is nothing like standing in an apartment that has hosted 3 different teachers at your school. In Parkland there are 2 apartments for the teachers. When we arrived Amy lived in one and Abbi lived in the other. Then they left and Alex moved into Abbi's and Mallessa into Amy's. Now once again, they both have left and it is Michael and Patrick who are there now. Standing in Patrick's apartment and thinking of the others who lived there was actually very humbling in the sense that time just doesn't ever stop. It goes quicker each day and well, you really have to be careful with the way you use it!
Mallessa's going away party was on Friday, and we found this to be the perfect opportunity to spend a night with our coworkers. We have really started to become a lot closer to the Korean teachers, and well as Friday night was happening I realized how much I would miss them. We went to the seafood bbp restaurant AGAIN haha, and spent from 10-2 just having an awesome time (by the end the crowd withered down to half of the Korean teachers, me, Gilad and Patrick - who was extremely jet lagged haha). Then we went to the makali bar after that and just talked and talked and talked. I really do regret not making more of an effort to get together outside of work because when it comes down to it, we all get along so well! We did try, unsuccessfully a few times, but maybe we should have tried harder. No matter now though because we are trying to use our time wisely for the next 7 weeks we are here! Like I said, time is just flying and well, sometimes I forget that I am even here because home feels so close.
_____Dawna________
Monday, June 23, 2008
New Link Added
Hey everyone,
We've added a new blog link to the left for Pegasus Teachers. They're based out of Vancover and they are a group of former teachers who help place teachers at schools in Korea. They created this blog to mainly keep teachers in in touch and informed with what is going on with their company and Korea. Give it a look... there's some good stuff there.
- Gilad
We've added a new blog link to the left for Pegasus Teachers. They're based out of Vancover and they are a group of former teachers who help place teachers at schools in Korea. They created this blog to mainly keep teachers in in touch and informed with what is going on with their company and Korea. Give it a look... there's some good stuff there.
- Gilad
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Adopted!
Hey,
So I forgot to mention..but that puppy we found was adopted over a week ago! Thank goodness for our good friend Bear and his girlfriend (the new parents) because 3 dogs were far too many dogs in one apartment.
Dawna
So I forgot to mention..but that puppy we found was adopted over a week ago! Thank goodness for our good friend Bear and his girlfriend (the new parents) because 3 dogs were far too many dogs in one apartment.
Dawna
Saturday, June 21, 2008
9077!
9077 hits to this website since we opened it back in August. With only 59 days to go, will we reach 10,000? More importantly, will we do it without Drew hitting the "reload" button a million times?
- Gilad
- Gilad
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Our Trip to North Korea
Before we get into the details of our trip, we'll try our best to offer a history of Korea (both South and North) in a nutshell. This is pretty important information to read in order to understand the current state of these two sovereign countries. So here we go:
Korea in a very small nutshell:
Before there was a North and South Korea, there was just one country: Korea. Korea has a rich culture and tradition dating back thousands of years, but you can read about all that in your own time. Fast forward to 1910, when Japan annexed Korea. Korea, as a result, continued to be ruled by Japan until Japan's defeat to the Allied Forces in August 1945 during World War II.
While under Japanese rule, the Japanese removed the Joseon hierarchy (unique to Korea), its nobles and its taxation system. From what we understand, many Koreans who were against this ruling (and rightfully so, in our opinion, as their language, heritage and culture were trying to be erased) were brutally tortured and murdered by the Japanese rulers.
Tons of rallies, strikes and attempted uprisings took place during this period. As a result, the Japanese military strengthened its power in Korea. After the outbreaks of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937 and World War II, Japan attempted to wipe out Korea as a nation. Worship at Japanese shrines in Korea was made mandatory. The school curriculum in Korea was radically changed to reflect the changed policies. The celebration of Korean culture was suppressed. Newspapers were prohibited from publishing in Korean and the study of Korean history was banned at university.
This all continued on until 1945, when Japan had two nuclear bombs dropped on it and had to surrender in World War II. As a result, Japan's 35-year rule over Korea had come to an end. Japan surrendered Korea over to the Allied Forces and this led to the division of Korea into two"temporary zones", with the United States administering the southern half of the peninsula and the Soviet Union taking over the area north of the 38th parallel (which is the line that divides the country in equal halves).
Now, we said 'temporary' because the country was eventually supposed to be restored as one and given back over to Korea to rule for themselves. What happened, however, was that the politics of the Cold War resulted in the 1948 establishment of two separate governments, North Korea and South Korea. The US installed a democratic government in the South, while the Soviets appointed Kim Il-Sung to become the leader of North Korea. South Korea became democratic, while North Korea became communist.
Sometime in 1950, North Korea invaded the South, using Russian tanks and weaponry. The North almost took over the South... but then the South retaliated and attacked back... and almost took over the North, until they retaliated. This went on and on for years, and during the Korean War (1950-1953), millions of North and South Korean civilians died and the three years of fighting throughout the nation effectively destroyed most cities (except some cities like Busan and our Masan, haha!). The war ended in a ceasefire agreement and thats where the two countries now find themselves: technically at war but with an ongoing 55 year ceasefire.
What Happened After The Divison?
Well, without getting into too much detail, it's pretty simple in my opinion. South Korea's form of government allowed it to prosper. South Korea, after sometime, became rich very quickly. They started doing a lot of international business and the economy boomed. This led to it becoming a modern, industrialized nation. There's everything here that you can find in any other industrialized nation... a nightlife, sky-rises, and tons of things to choose from. People here do business, party, and basically have the freedom to do what they want, when they want.
However, the North is quite different. Kim Il Sung's communist regime did things another way. People in the North idolize him (even to this day, after his passing) as the Great Leader, even though their country, from what I know, is poor and the people are starving. There's no name-brand anything there... there are no public businesses. The people have no access to the Internet, cannot use cell phones and are basically blocked off from the rest of the world. They only hear and learn what their government allows them to hear and learn. It didn't take long for Dawna and I to both see the anti-American attitude of the country. The few bookstores we were able to stop into were littered with anti-American propaganda. The people there more or less blame the Americans for the division of the country. Anyway, Kim Jung-Il (Kim Il-Sung's son) is now the ruler, and things haven't changed.
Onto our part of the trip.
Our Trip to Kaesong, North Korea:
We consider ourselves pretty lucky to have gone on this trip. This tour to Kaesong only opened up in December of 2007, so it has not been long at all that North Korea has allowed visitors into its country. So here is how we began our journey:
After a VERY tiresome week, we were ecstatic when that last ECC bell rang which welcomed the weekend. Gilad and I hopped on an overnight bus ride (on which neither of us slept due to crazy driving and loud music) and arrived in Seoul at 3 am. We wandered the streets until our tour started at 5:50 am. Right away we knew we had an incredible tour guide and so we went into this trip feeling very lucky (after a mediocre tour guide experience with the DMZ tour). We got onto our tour bus feeling very excited but really unsure of what to expect. We listened to the rules: Basically we were only allowed to go where we were told and take pictures of only what we were told, otherwise we would have to pay a hefty fine or even lose our camera. Specifically, with the pictures, we weren't allowed to take any photos of North Korean people, buildings or landscape. Basically, they don't want us bringing back any pictures that depict North Korean life in any way. So when you see our pictures, you'll understand why they are all focused around the sites we visited and nothing else. While it was frustrating not being able to really document the trip through pictures, this allowed us to spend time asking questions to our Korean guide, attempt at some conversation (through translation) with our accompanying North Korean guide, and to just take it all in.
After we had gotten the Visa business sorted out on the South side, we were on our way. The most surreal feeling was being on that bus as we passed through the street where South Korea officially became North Korea. Our bus was escorted by a jeep full of South Korean soldiers, and before you know it, they pull over and U-turn, while another jeep full of North Korean soldiers take over the escorting duties. Wow! We're in North Korea right now. Unbelievable! Right when we got into the North, we had to sort out some more Visa business. It was here we realized that all the North Korean people we saw were wearing identical pins on their shirts showing the face of their Great Leader, Kim-Il Sung. Everybody in the country must wear this pin at all times to show their dedication and alliance with their leader. Everyone has three pins to avoid any excuses. After the Visa process, we then proceeded to get back onto the bus, where three North Korean government officials joined us. There were two North Koreans at the front of the bus and one other at the back of the bus making sure that we didn't do anything bad, i.e. take pictures of the North from inside the bus. Immediately, our thoughts were, "Oh God, there are North Koreans on the bus! We need to get as close to them as possible." And we did... we got seats RIGHT NEXT TO THEM for the whole time which allowed us to converse with them about several things. This was definitely a highlight of the trip and an unbelievable moment for the two of us.
We visited a few historical sites, all of which were so-so on the interesting scale. You'll see those in the pictures below. However, the most interesting parts were in-between these sites where we traveled throughout the city, and through the window (and sometimes standing outside), were able to get a glimpse of the lives of the people in North Korea. How would we describe the landscape? To me, it appeared like what South Korea could have looked like 40-50 years ago.
Imagine living in a country with no cell phones or internet, owning a television or radio (only if you are very privileged of course) which only boasted about the greatness of the leader. Imagine having no electricity, big roads but no cars to drive, and having a curfew to follow each day. Try to think of what life would be like if you had someone over you controlling your every move. Then step a little further outside of the box and see how you would feel if you were making only 2 dollars a day no matter if you are a farmer or a doctor, were poor and starving, and you had a leader that lived in luxury. You would probably think that many of these people would feel angry or bitter no? This of course is not something we could ever know due to the restrictions the government places on foreign communication. However this is a nation that is socialized to believe in the supremacy and godliness of it's leader. They are blocked from the outside world and thus are unaware of most things that are not North Korean. They know nothing else and so how can we ever know how they truly feel. With the help of our tour guide who has actually befriended a few North Koreans throughout her numerous trips (a spectacular feat), we were able to hear about how true they stand to the government. How starvation is not an issue, and how they will find roots from the ground to eat if necessary in order to stay loyal.
There are no words to describe the feeling of seeing buildings that are old and falling apart, glass windows that look like flimsy plastic due to low constructive technology, huge roads with nothing to fill them, and people who look like they have stepped back in time. The people in North Korea are of course just like people all over the world, but the mystery that surrounds them will plague us forever. We want to be able to talk to them but we can't. We want to be able to live among them, but that is a dream that most likely will never materialize. Some people smiled and waved, most others however just looked straight ahead and went on with life.
As I got up this morning, had a popsicle and sat down to watch TV. I, of course, could not stop reflecting about our trip. The biggest issue that struck Gilad and I was the complete control the government has over its people. We were lucky to get to see the people we did, because for the most part, anywhere the bus went people were told to stay in their houses for that specific time. Life for them stopped, because we were continuing on with our trip. Soldiers were placed randomly throughout, to not only watch our buses, but to make sure no one violated the government's demands. It was definitely strange seeing soldiers standing in random fields or on the side of the road, staring, as we passed, with nothing to do. This is just something that is so hard to digest as a human being, with an active mind and body is not allowed to make any decisions for themselves, right down to the clothes they wear, the house they live in and the job they work.
We were told that students study for ten years in North Korea. Four years elementary, three middle school and three high school. After that, two in ten students are chosen to go to University. The others either begin the rest of their working life or they go to the military. We were also informed that the clothes people wear, and the food they eat are all provided by the government. There are a few government run department stores, grocery stores and barber shops but from the outside you could never tell the difference from those and the apartments that people live in. Why is it that there are these massive roads when people are only lucky enough to perhaps afford a bicycle? Why does the capital city turn on its electricity only when a foreigner arrives? Or how about having a subway system that no one can use? Gilad made an excellent point when he stated that if things are they way they are here (in Kaesong) what was life like where the tour buses weren't allowed to go. The government is trying to paint a face value picture for its few visitors but even through that we can only imagine the truth.
As was mentioned, Gilad and I were fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to talk with one of the less shy North Korean guides. Pearl (our South Korean tour guide) mentioned how this man refused to learn a word of Japanese for their Japanese visitors so as to stay true to his heritage. However, after a little time, he began to show interest in us and began asking many questions about Canada (which even though he is a Professor of Business, we believe he did not know where Canada was). This in turn allowed us to ask many questions about his daily life, his children and his favourite food. We left the trip by writing a note to him (which was translated by Pearl) thanking him for being there and consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to have some time with one on one contact. How many people have the opportunity to write a letter and witness a North Korean not only read it, but be happy with it and decide to keep it? We feel very fortunate that we were placed in that situation.
Anyways we know this is a really long post, and I know we were only there for a short time, but North Korea is a place you can never really imagine until you see it. Getting a small taste of it has left us hungry for more and we will continue to be intrigued and concerned with the happenings there. Not everything there is so desolate like it may seem. This is a country full of beauty. The landscape is incredible, with lush grass, rolling hills and beautiful mountains (one of which looks like a pregnant woman!) The people there may be hungry but that may give them all the more reason to form strong relationships and we can only imagine the kindness that may take place between one another.
We hope this won't be our last experience with North Korea, however the future is very unpredictable. Now, the question is, how do we set up a Global trip there?
The Pictures:
Kaesong City in North Korea. We found this picture on the Internet. We aren't allowed to take any pictures like this because it depicts the city. But this gives you a rough idea. Old, unkept. Most places aren't even this developed.
Didn't take this picture. Shows some of the housing.
Again, didn't take this picture. Shows a structure. Could be anything from an apartment, school, barbershop, goverment-run grocery stores... who knows. It all looks the same.
Didn't take this picture either... but gives you a good sense of the big roads and no cars driving on them. Ever. Very eery.
Didn't take this picture either... shows Kim Il-Sung, the Great Leader. A God-like figure to the North Koreans.
Last picture that we didn't take... but here's a North Korean soldier. They all dress like this. Looks kinda creepy with their outfit looking like they're 50 years old.
Twenty-four hours of no sleep makes you look like this.
What a declaration card looks like for when you return from North Korea.
Kaesong, North Korea THATAWAY... and Seoul, South Korea... THATAWAY.
In the North now, Dawna in the park.
Gilad standing in front of a huge plaque at the park... likely promoting one of the Kim's.
Always had to wear our visas and passports around our neck. Not doing so would result in a HUGE fine.
Sitting in front of a structure.
A beautiful waterfall at the park.
Korean inscription written in the rock.
Again, can't read it, but be some propaganda... or not.
Propaganda?
Dawna with the awesome tour gude.
Dawna with the awesome fiancee.
Housing at the park.
One of the many mountains to be seen anywhere in Korea, North or South.
A monk's house at the park.
Our tour guide explaining this mural at the park. The story goes that there was once this guy who was creating this mural and before he was finished, he found out that his mother was really sick... so he decided that he wanted to go visit her and stopped painting. However, whoever it was that he worked for told him that he couldn't leave until he finished it. So he spent some more time here finishing the painting. He eventually got word that his mother had died. He came to the conclusion that this art was the reason he couldn't visit his mother and so he felt cursed, so-to-speak. As a result, he decided to decapitate his own hand so he could never make art again. He modified his mural himself, to depict him without the hand.
A closer look at the mural.
A closer look at the man without the hand.
A temple at the top of the mountain of the park we had visited. This is no longer an official temple as religion is banned in this country. It's kept here, rather, as a monument to show the history and tradition of the country.
Inside one of the caves at the park.
Yea, that's right. I took a picture of a couple of North Koreans hanging out... you know... in North Korea. Yea, I was there.
A hotel in a traditional part of the city. They let us take this picture, because the hotel looks nice. Please don't confuse this with what the rest of the structures in the city look like. It's likely that nobody ever stays here.
Dawna in the village. Next up was lunch.
Dawna excited to eat lunch.
That's a lot of food! We felt pretty bad eating it at times, knowing the rest of the country likely never ate this way. You could tell the government put on this elaborate meal to make it seem like they aren't nearly as poor as they are.
The food itself was as traditional as all Korean meals. Rice and tons of side dishes. It was delicious. The kimchi was nowhere near as spicy as it is back in the South.
We were excited to try the beer, but they didn't have any left so rather, we got some Makgullee... the fermented rice milk. I've definitely had better... this must have been fermenting for a while.
A close-up shot of the windows of the housing. Although the house looks nice from the outside, you can see the poor-quality of these windows. They are glass but look like plastic. I took this right before we headed into our first bookstore... where we saw tons of Anti-American literature and several books written by the Kims. I wish I could have brought one back for souvenir purposes, but the South Korean rules state that you can bring anything anti-American or pro-North Korean back into the South. Oh well.
A picture showing off our huge tour group. I really wish it was MUCH smaller.
An interesting tree, for sure.
You can tell who the South Koreans are by the mandatory passport/visas they have to wear around their necks... and you can tell who the North Korean is by the mandatory pin she must wear on all of her clothes.
A closer view of the pin.
I was a little worried taking this picture because I thought I some of the background city would turn up in the photo, but it didn't. Otherwise, I'd be screwed. At the same time, I really wish the background did show up.
They don't stamp your passports. Rather, they stamp the separate Visa they give you... and then they take it back when you leave. Your passport really shows no proof that you were there. Anyway, here's the stamp. After this, we went back to the Visa station where the North Koreans checked everything we had, made sure we weren't smuggling anything out of their country, and checked EVERYONE'S digital cameras to make sure we weren't taking any pictures of things we weren't allowed to take pictures of.
Thirty-nine hours of no sleep makes you look like this.
There you go. We wish we could show you more, but North Korea is definitely not a place you want to risk getting in trouble in. We can honestly say that the twelve hours we spent in North Korea were the most enlightening twelve hours of our lives. A beautiful and very strange place. There's DEFINITELY more than meets the eye... we just wish we could figure out how to see it.
- Gilad and Dawna.
Before there was a North and South Korea, there was just one country: Korea. Korea has a rich culture and tradition dating back thousands of years, but you can read about all that in your own time. Fast forward to 1910, when Japan annexed Korea. Korea, as a result, continued to be ruled by Japan until Japan's defeat to the Allied Forces in August 1945 during World War II.
While under Japanese rule, the Japanese removed the Joseon hierarchy (unique to Korea), its nobles and its taxation system. From what we understand, many Koreans who were against this ruling (and rightfully so, in our opinion, as their language, heritage and culture were trying to be erased) were brutally tortured and murdered by the Japanese rulers.
Tons of rallies, strikes and attempted uprisings took place during this period. As a result, the Japanese military strengthened its power in Korea. After the outbreaks of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937 and World War II, Japan attempted to wipe out Korea as a nation. Worship at Japanese shrines in Korea was made mandatory. The school curriculum in Korea was radically changed to reflect the changed policies. The celebration of Korean culture was suppressed. Newspapers were prohibited from publishing in Korean and the study of Korean history was banned at university.
This all continued on until 1945, when Japan had two nuclear bombs dropped on it and had to surrender in World War II. As a result, Japan's 35-year rule over Korea had come to an end. Japan surrendered Korea over to the Allied Forces and this led to the division of Korea into two"temporary zones", with the United States administering the southern half of the peninsula and the Soviet Union taking over the area north of the 38th parallel (which is the line that divides the country in equal halves).
Now, we said 'temporary' because the country was eventually supposed to be restored as one and given back over to Korea to rule for themselves. What happened, however, was that the politics of the Cold War resulted in the 1948 establishment of two separate governments, North Korea and South Korea. The US installed a democratic government in the South, while the Soviets appointed Kim Il-Sung to become the leader of North Korea. South Korea became democratic, while North Korea became communist.
Sometime in 1950, North Korea invaded the South, using Russian tanks and weaponry. The North almost took over the South... but then the South retaliated and attacked back... and almost took over the North, until they retaliated. This went on and on for years, and during the Korean War (1950-1953), millions of North and South Korean civilians died and the three years of fighting throughout the nation effectively destroyed most cities (except some cities like Busan and our Masan, haha!). The war ended in a ceasefire agreement and thats where the two countries now find themselves: technically at war but with an ongoing 55 year ceasefire.
Well, without getting into too much detail, it's pretty simple in my opinion. South Korea's form of government allowed it to prosper. South Korea, after sometime, became rich very quickly. They started doing a lot of international business and the economy boomed. This led to it becoming a modern, industrialized nation. There's everything here that you can find in any other industrialized nation... a nightlife, sky-rises, and tons of things to choose from. People here do business, party, and basically have the freedom to do what they want, when they want.
However, the North is quite different. Kim Il Sung's communist regime did things another way. People in the North idolize him (even to this day, after his passing) as the Great Leader, even though their country, from what I know, is poor and the people are starving. There's no name-brand anything there... there are no public businesses. The people have no access to the Internet, cannot use cell phones and are basically blocked off from the rest of the world. They only hear and learn what their government allows them to hear and learn. It didn't take long for Dawna and I to both see the anti-American attitude of the country. The few bookstores we were able to stop into were littered with anti-American propaganda. The people there more or less blame the Americans for the division of the country. Anyway, Kim Jung-Il (Kim Il-Sung's son) is now the ruler, and things haven't changed.
Onto our part of the trip.
We consider ourselves pretty lucky to have gone on this trip. This tour to Kaesong only opened up in December of 2007, so it has not been long at all that North Korea has allowed visitors into its country. So here is how we began our journey:
After a VERY tiresome week, we were ecstatic when that last ECC bell rang which welcomed the weekend. Gilad and I hopped on an overnight bus ride (on which neither of us slept due to crazy driving and loud music) and arrived in Seoul at 3 am. We wandered the streets until our tour started at 5:50 am. Right away we knew we had an incredible tour guide and so we went into this trip feeling very lucky (after a mediocre tour guide experience with the DMZ tour). We got onto our tour bus feeling very excited but really unsure of what to expect. We listened to the rules: Basically we were only allowed to go where we were told and take pictures of only what we were told, otherwise we would have to pay a hefty fine or even lose our camera. Specifically, with the pictures, we weren't allowed to take any photos of North Korean people, buildings or landscape. Basically, they don't want us bringing back any pictures that depict North Korean life in any way. So when you see our pictures, you'll understand why they are all focused around the sites we visited and nothing else. While it was frustrating not being able to really document the trip through pictures, this allowed us to spend time asking questions to our Korean guide, attempt at some conversation (through translation) with our accompanying North Korean guide, and to just take it all in.
After we had gotten the Visa business sorted out on the South side, we were on our way. The most surreal feeling was being on that bus as we passed through the street where South Korea officially became North Korea. Our bus was escorted by a jeep full of South Korean soldiers, and before you know it, they pull over and U-turn, while another jeep full of North Korean soldiers take over the escorting duties. Wow! We're in North Korea right now. Unbelievable! Right when we got into the North, we had to sort out some more Visa business. It was here we realized that all the North Korean people we saw were wearing identical pins on their shirts showing the face of their Great Leader, Kim-Il Sung. Everybody in the country must wear this pin at all times to show their dedication and alliance with their leader. Everyone has three pins to avoid any excuses. After the Visa process, we then proceeded to get back onto the bus, where three North Korean government officials joined us. There were two North Koreans at the front of the bus and one other at the back of the bus making sure that we didn't do anything bad, i.e. take pictures of the North from inside the bus. Immediately, our thoughts were, "Oh God, there are North Koreans on the bus! We need to get as close to them as possible." And we did... we got seats RIGHT NEXT TO THEM for the whole time which allowed us to converse with them about several things. This was definitely a highlight of the trip and an unbelievable moment for the two of us.
We visited a few historical sites, all of which were so-so on the interesting scale. You'll see those in the pictures below. However, the most interesting parts were in-between these sites where we traveled throughout the city, and through the window (and sometimes standing outside), were able to get a glimpse of the lives of the people in North Korea. How would we describe the landscape? To me, it appeared like what South Korea could have looked like 40-50 years ago.
Imagine living in a country with no cell phones or internet, owning a television or radio (only if you are very privileged of course) which only boasted about the greatness of the leader. Imagine having no electricity, big roads but no cars to drive, and having a curfew to follow each day. Try to think of what life would be like if you had someone over you controlling your every move. Then step a little further outside of the box and see how you would feel if you were making only 2 dollars a day no matter if you are a farmer or a doctor, were poor and starving, and you had a leader that lived in luxury. You would probably think that many of these people would feel angry or bitter no? This of course is not something we could ever know due to the restrictions the government places on foreign communication. However this is a nation that is socialized to believe in the supremacy and godliness of it's leader. They are blocked from the outside world and thus are unaware of most things that are not North Korean. They know nothing else and so how can we ever know how they truly feel. With the help of our tour guide who has actually befriended a few North Koreans throughout her numerous trips (a spectacular feat), we were able to hear about how true they stand to the government. How starvation is not an issue, and how they will find roots from the ground to eat if necessary in order to stay loyal.
There are no words to describe the feeling of seeing buildings that are old and falling apart, glass windows that look like flimsy plastic due to low constructive technology, huge roads with nothing to fill them, and people who look like they have stepped back in time. The people in North Korea are of course just like people all over the world, but the mystery that surrounds them will plague us forever. We want to be able to talk to them but we can't. We want to be able to live among them, but that is a dream that most likely will never materialize. Some people smiled and waved, most others however just looked straight ahead and went on with life.
As I got up this morning, had a popsicle and sat down to watch TV. I, of course, could not stop reflecting about our trip. The biggest issue that struck Gilad and I was the complete control the government has over its people. We were lucky to get to see the people we did, because for the most part, anywhere the bus went people were told to stay in their houses for that specific time. Life for them stopped, because we were continuing on with our trip. Soldiers were placed randomly throughout, to not only watch our buses, but to make sure no one violated the government's demands. It was definitely strange seeing soldiers standing in random fields or on the side of the road, staring, as we passed, with nothing to do. This is just something that is so hard to digest as a human being, with an active mind and body is not allowed to make any decisions for themselves, right down to the clothes they wear, the house they live in and the job they work.
We were told that students study for ten years in North Korea. Four years elementary, three middle school and three high school. After that, two in ten students are chosen to go to University. The others either begin the rest of their working life or they go to the military. We were also informed that the clothes people wear, and the food they eat are all provided by the government. There are a few government run department stores, grocery stores and barber shops but from the outside you could never tell the difference from those and the apartments that people live in. Why is it that there are these massive roads when people are only lucky enough to perhaps afford a bicycle? Why does the capital city turn on its electricity only when a foreigner arrives? Or how about having a subway system that no one can use? Gilad made an excellent point when he stated that if things are they way they are here (in Kaesong) what was life like where the tour buses weren't allowed to go. The government is trying to paint a face value picture for its few visitors but even through that we can only imagine the truth.
As was mentioned, Gilad and I were fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to talk with one of the less shy North Korean guides. Pearl (our South Korean tour guide) mentioned how this man refused to learn a word of Japanese for their Japanese visitors so as to stay true to his heritage. However, after a little time, he began to show interest in us and began asking many questions about Canada (which even though he is a Professor of Business, we believe he did not know where Canada was). This in turn allowed us to ask many questions about his daily life, his children and his favourite food. We left the trip by writing a note to him (which was translated by Pearl) thanking him for being there and consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to have some time with one on one contact. How many people have the opportunity to write a letter and witness a North Korean not only read it, but be happy with it and decide to keep it? We feel very fortunate that we were placed in that situation.
Anyways we know this is a really long post, and I know we were only there for a short time, but North Korea is a place you can never really imagine until you see it. Getting a small taste of it has left us hungry for more and we will continue to be intrigued and concerned with the happenings there. Not everything there is so desolate like it may seem. This is a country full of beauty. The landscape is incredible, with lush grass, rolling hills and beautiful mountains (one of which looks like a pregnant woman!) The people there may be hungry but that may give them all the more reason to form strong relationships and we can only imagine the kindness that may take place between one another.
We hope this won't be our last experience with North Korea, however the future is very unpredictable. Now, the question is, how do we set up a Global trip there?
Kaesong City in North Korea. We found this picture on the Internet. We aren't allowed to take any pictures like this because it depicts the city. But this gives you a rough idea. Old, unkept. Most places aren't even this developed.
Didn't take this picture. Shows some of the housing.
Again, didn't take this picture. Shows a structure. Could be anything from an apartment, school, barbershop, goverment-run grocery stores... who knows. It all looks the same.
Didn't take this picture either... but gives you a good sense of the big roads and no cars driving on them. Ever. Very eery.
Didn't take this picture either... shows Kim Il-Sung, the Great Leader. A God-like figure to the North Koreans.
Last picture that we didn't take... but here's a North Korean soldier. They all dress like this. Looks kinda creepy with their outfit looking like they're 50 years old.
Twenty-four hours of no sleep makes you look like this.
What a declaration card looks like for when you return from North Korea.
Kaesong, North Korea THATAWAY... and Seoul, South Korea... THATAWAY.
In the North now, Dawna in the park.
Gilad standing in front of a huge plaque at the park... likely promoting one of the Kim's.
Always had to wear our visas and passports around our neck. Not doing so would result in a HUGE fine.
Sitting in front of a structure.
A beautiful waterfall at the park.
Korean inscription written in the rock.
Again, can't read it, but be some propaganda... or not.
Propaganda?
Dawna with the awesome tour gude.
Dawna with the awesome fiancee.
Housing at the park.
One of the many mountains to be seen anywhere in Korea, North or South.
A monk's house at the park.
Our tour guide explaining this mural at the park. The story goes that there was once this guy who was creating this mural and before he was finished, he found out that his mother was really sick... so he decided that he wanted to go visit her and stopped painting. However, whoever it was that he worked for told him that he couldn't leave until he finished it. So he spent some more time here finishing the painting. He eventually got word that his mother had died. He came to the conclusion that this art was the reason he couldn't visit his mother and so he felt cursed, so-to-speak. As a result, he decided to decapitate his own hand so he could never make art again. He modified his mural himself, to depict him without the hand.
A closer look at the mural.
A closer look at the man without the hand.
A temple at the top of the mountain of the park we had visited. This is no longer an official temple as religion is banned in this country. It's kept here, rather, as a monument to show the history and tradition of the country.
Inside one of the caves at the park.
Yea, that's right. I took a picture of a couple of North Koreans hanging out... you know... in North Korea. Yea, I was there.
A hotel in a traditional part of the city. They let us take this picture, because the hotel looks nice. Please don't confuse this with what the rest of the structures in the city look like. It's likely that nobody ever stays here.
Dawna in the village. Next up was lunch.
Dawna excited to eat lunch.
That's a lot of food! We felt pretty bad eating it at times, knowing the rest of the country likely never ate this way. You could tell the government put on this elaborate meal to make it seem like they aren't nearly as poor as they are.
The food itself was as traditional as all Korean meals. Rice and tons of side dishes. It was delicious. The kimchi was nowhere near as spicy as it is back in the South.
We were excited to try the beer, but they didn't have any left so rather, we got some Makgullee... the fermented rice milk. I've definitely had better... this must have been fermenting for a while.
A close-up shot of the windows of the housing. Although the house looks nice from the outside, you can see the poor-quality of these windows. They are glass but look like plastic. I took this right before we headed into our first bookstore... where we saw tons of Anti-American literature and several books written by the Kims. I wish I could have brought one back for souvenir purposes, but the South Korean rules state that you can bring anything anti-American or pro-North Korean back into the South. Oh well.
A picture showing off our huge tour group. I really wish it was MUCH smaller.
An interesting tree, for sure.
You can tell who the South Koreans are by the mandatory passport/visas they have to wear around their necks... and you can tell who the North Korean is by the mandatory pin she must wear on all of her clothes.
A closer view of the pin.
I was a little worried taking this picture because I thought I some of the background city would turn up in the photo, but it didn't. Otherwise, I'd be screwed. At the same time, I really wish the background did show up.
They don't stamp your passports. Rather, they stamp the separate Visa they give you... and then they take it back when you leave. Your passport really shows no proof that you were there. Anyway, here's the stamp. After this, we went back to the Visa station where the North Koreans checked everything we had, made sure we weren't smuggling anything out of their country, and checked EVERYONE'S digital cameras to make sure we weren't taking any pictures of things we weren't allowed to take pictures of.
Thirty-nine hours of no sleep makes you look like this.
There you go. We wish we could show you more, but North Korea is definitely not a place you want to risk getting in trouble in. We can honestly say that the twelve hours we spent in North Korea were the most enlightening twelve hours of our lives. A beautiful and very strange place. There's DEFINITELY more than meets the eye... we just wish we could figure out how to see it.
- Gilad and Dawna.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
North of the South
Guess where we'll be 24 hours from now? NORTH KOREA! One day of work to go, an hour of exercising the dogs, a 5 hour bus ride to Seoul, an all nighter... and BAM! We're in North Korea for a day.
Pictures and videos (albeit, very limited amounts, I'm sure... damn North) to come.
- Gilad
Pictures and videos (albeit, very limited amounts, I'm sure... damn North) to come.
- Gilad
Saturday, June 7, 2008
A puppy looking for a home
Hey everybody,
So this message is really directed to people living in Korea, however maybe an outsider can help too.
Gilad and I were going for a hike up the mountain when we came across a very friendly little puppy. She came right up to us, and when she did we noticed that she was very dirty and skinny. There was a collar but no name tag. We believed she had either run away or been dumped and so we picked her up and took her home.
As most of you know we already have 2 dogs and so having a third is really just not feasible for us right now. We just took her to the vet and got her a medical bath, tick/flea treatment, and a heartworm test (which came back negative).
She is approximately 6 months old and looks like a daschund mix. She is soooooooooo sweet and seems to really love people. We really need to find her a foster/permanent home especially since we are going on vacation (and still need to find care for our 2 dogs!) and leaving for Canada (permanently) shortly after that.
If anybody is interested please contact us through e-mail or reply to this post and we will get back to you. We are asking for a 50, 000 won fee, mostly to cover some of the medical bills we paid (we spent a small fortune) and also because it was suggested to do so to show that the person is really interested.
Thanks for any potential help you can give!
Dawna
So this message is really directed to people living in Korea, however maybe an outsider can help too.
Gilad and I were going for a hike up the mountain when we came across a very friendly little puppy. She came right up to us, and when she did we noticed that she was very dirty and skinny. There was a collar but no name tag. We believed she had either run away or been dumped and so we picked her up and took her home.
As most of you know we already have 2 dogs and so having a third is really just not feasible for us right now. We just took her to the vet and got her a medical bath, tick/flea treatment, and a heartworm test (which came back negative).
She is approximately 6 months old and looks like a daschund mix. She is soooooooooo sweet and seems to really love people. We really need to find her a foster/permanent home especially since we are going on vacation (and still need to find care for our 2 dogs!) and leaving for Canada (permanently) shortly after that.
If anybody is interested please contact us through e-mail or reply to this post and we will get back to you. We are asking for a 50, 000 won fee, mostly to cover some of the medical bills we paid (we spent a small fortune) and also because it was suggested to do so to show that the person is really interested.
Thanks for any potential help you can give!
Dawna
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Bah
Prior to this whole Korea experience, the longest I'd ever been away from my friends and family was for a month. A month, at the time, felt long... but it wasn't too bad. I've always been proud of my ability to stay strong in whichever country or setting I was in and not give up or cave in and want to go home. I'm also very proud of myself for doing that now...
Now that I've been to Korea, those month long trips in the past seem like no time at all. I'm not going to lie... I've been counting down the days to coming home. I've numbered the amount of days I have left... the number of weekends I have left... the number of working days, workouts... and on the elevator ride up to my apartment this morning, I even figured how many more inches my hair could grow before I came home. Everything is being timed... calculated.. counted down. Not that I'm hating it here, but really, I just haven't had the chance to meet anybody that I know will be a friend of mine after I leave. I haven't really developed any close bonds with anybody and I'm pretty sure that after I'm gone, nobody will notice. It sounds so sad and emotional... but it's the truth. Dawna and I have always figured that if most people don't care about us while we're here... why will they care once we're gone? It's definitely difficult at times getting by without having close friends around us. We're lucky to have one another and we're lucky that we keep each other entertained... otherwise we'd go nuts. Oh, and the pups help a lot too.
What am I missing really badly right now? My closest friends at home. I had a dream last night that Bryson had picked Dawna and I up from the airport and we were in his car driving back to Waterloo. It was such a relief to know that we were back home with our friends... that the day we were counting down to had finally come and that I was in the company of a really good friend of mine. It's been a really long time since I sat down with a friend and just talked about meaningful things... or meaningless things... or whatever. I really miss that... and although we're about 80% done our contracts (78.6% to be exact... calculated that earlier today too) and we barely have 77 days left, I still feel like there's an eternity to be spent here. The time difference is also tough as I can hardly catch my friends online or give them a call at a time that would be convenient for both of us.
I apologize for the depressing rant... and I know how I am: I'm feeling like this right now but by tomorrow, I'll bounce back and feel better. It's how the rollercoaster of being away from home has been. Basically... long story short... I just really miss my good friends. A lot.
- Gilad
Now that I've been to Korea, those month long trips in the past seem like no time at all. I'm not going to lie... I've been counting down the days to coming home. I've numbered the amount of days I have left... the number of weekends I have left... the number of working days, workouts... and on the elevator ride up to my apartment this morning, I even figured how many more inches my hair could grow before I came home. Everything is being timed... calculated.. counted down. Not that I'm hating it here, but really, I just haven't had the chance to meet anybody that I know will be a friend of mine after I leave. I haven't really developed any close bonds with anybody and I'm pretty sure that after I'm gone, nobody will notice. It sounds so sad and emotional... but it's the truth. Dawna and I have always figured that if most people don't care about us while we're here... why will they care once we're gone? It's definitely difficult at times getting by without having close friends around us. We're lucky to have one another and we're lucky that we keep each other entertained... otherwise we'd go nuts. Oh, and the pups help a lot too.
What am I missing really badly right now? My closest friends at home. I had a dream last night that Bryson had picked Dawna and I up from the airport and we were in his car driving back to Waterloo. It was such a relief to know that we were back home with our friends... that the day we were counting down to had finally come and that I was in the company of a really good friend of mine. It's been a really long time since I sat down with a friend and just talked about meaningful things... or meaningless things... or whatever. I really miss that... and although we're about 80% done our contracts (78.6% to be exact... calculated that earlier today too) and we barely have 77 days left, I still feel like there's an eternity to be spent here. The time difference is also tough as I can hardly catch my friends online or give them a call at a time that would be convenient for both of us.
I apologize for the depressing rant... and I know how I am: I'm feeling like this right now but by tomorrow, I'll bounce back and feel better. It's how the rollercoaster of being away from home has been. Basically... long story short... I just really miss my good friends. A lot.
- Gilad
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Another thing to add to the list
So as our time to go home nears, Gilad and I have been trying to do the things that we think are important before we leave Korea. Really, going to North Korea and a Jimjilbang were the most important for us as we feel we have done most of what we have wanted already. As of June 14th we will be able to cross North Korea off our list, and as of yesterday we were able to experience the jimjilbang.
It is unfortunate the we did not try this out sooner, because really, the public spa (jimjilbang) is one of the coolest things that Asia has to offer.
In Korea, going to the spa is a weekly (sometimes daily!) routine that revolves around socializing and relaxation. Koreans, as many know, are work-a-holics and so the jimjilbang is the perfect way to unwind and let the stress leave your body. So here is how it works:
Girls and guys have separate change rooms. So you go in, you pay the small fee of five dollars (this lasts for as long as you want as they are open 24 hours) and you get a towel and a uniform. Then you go into the change room. This isn't just any average change room however. These change rooms are equipped with not only lockers, and hair dryers and all that normal stuff but with showers, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpools, women who can give you a full body scrub, and so much more. It's pretty incredible. The part that often throws foreigners off is that you are completely naked. Everybody from young to old are in the buff. At first I thought it might be a little weird but to be honest it wasn't weird at all, besides the normal stares I got for being foreign, and the little girl who followed me EVERYWHERE. It shouldn't be weird for you because it is not weird for anyone else. You see people sitting, talking, washing themselves, and washing each other. This is the way for Koreans, and I thought it was pretty cool.
Once you have relaxed and cleaned off in your separate rooms you are able to put on a uniform and meet up with the opposite sex in the co-ed room. This is the actual jimjilbang. Here you can sit in a chair and get an incredible 10 minute massage for 1 dollar. You can sweat until your clothes are soaking wet in the hot rooms, then you can cool off in the ice covered pipe rooms. There are a bunch of other rooms that we just haven't explored yet as well. If you get hungry or thirsty you can buy something at the snack booth, if you get tired you can take a blanket and lie down, you can watch tv, and you can use the internet. This is a place where whole families can go and just relax and spend time together.
Gilad and I are really happy that we FINALLY were able to experience this and I am a little disappointed that we didn't go sooner, although in our last 11 weeks we will for sure be going back.
Dawna
It is unfortunate the we did not try this out sooner, because really, the public spa (jimjilbang) is one of the coolest things that Asia has to offer.
In Korea, going to the spa is a weekly (sometimes daily!) routine that revolves around socializing and relaxation. Koreans, as many know, are work-a-holics and so the jimjilbang is the perfect way to unwind and let the stress leave your body. So here is how it works:
Girls and guys have separate change rooms. So you go in, you pay the small fee of five dollars (this lasts for as long as you want as they are open 24 hours) and you get a towel and a uniform. Then you go into the change room. This isn't just any average change room however. These change rooms are equipped with not only lockers, and hair dryers and all that normal stuff but with showers, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpools, women who can give you a full body scrub, and so much more. It's pretty incredible. The part that often throws foreigners off is that you are completely naked. Everybody from young to old are in the buff. At first I thought it might be a little weird but to be honest it wasn't weird at all, besides the normal stares I got for being foreign, and the little girl who followed me EVERYWHERE. It shouldn't be weird for you because it is not weird for anyone else. You see people sitting, talking, washing themselves, and washing each other. This is the way for Koreans, and I thought it was pretty cool.
Once you have relaxed and cleaned off in your separate rooms you are able to put on a uniform and meet up with the opposite sex in the co-ed room. This is the actual jimjilbang. Here you can sit in a chair and get an incredible 10 minute massage for 1 dollar. You can sweat until your clothes are soaking wet in the hot rooms, then you can cool off in the ice covered pipe rooms. There are a bunch of other rooms that we just haven't explored yet as well. If you get hungry or thirsty you can buy something at the snack booth, if you get tired you can take a blanket and lie down, you can watch tv, and you can use the internet. This is a place where whole families can go and just relax and spend time together.
Gilad and I are really happy that we FINALLY were able to experience this and I am a little disappointed that we didn't go sooner, although in our last 11 weeks we will for sure be going back.
Dawna
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