Our Trip to North Korea

Before we get into the details of our trip, we'll try our best to offer a history of Korea (both South and North) in a nutshell. This is pretty important information to read in order to understand the current state of these two sovereign countries. So here we go:

Korea in a very small nutshell:

Before there was a North and South Korea, there was just one country: Korea. Korea has a rich culture and tradition dating back thousands of years, but you can read about all that in your own time. Fast forward to 1910, when Japan annexed Korea. Korea, as a result, continued to be ruled by Japan until Japan's defeat to the Allied Forces in August 1945 during World War II.

While under Japanese rule, the Japanese removed the Joseon hierarchy (unique to Korea), its nobles and its taxation system. From what we understand, many Koreans who were against this ruling (and rightfully so, in our opinion, as their language, heritage and culture were trying to be erased) were brutally tortured and murdered by the Japanese rulers.

Tons of rallies, strikes and attempted uprisings took place during this period. As a result, the Japanese military strengthened its power in Korea. After the outbreaks of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937 and World War II, Japan attempted to wipe out Korea as a nation. Worship at Japanese shrines in Korea was made mandatory. The school curriculum in Korea was radically changed to reflect the changed policies. The celebration of Korean culture was suppressed. Newspapers were prohibited from publishing in Korean and the study of Korean history was banned at university.

This all continued on until 1945, when Japan had two nuclear bombs dropped on it and had to surrender in World War II. As a result, Japan's 35-year rule over Korea had come to an end. Japan surrendered Korea over to the Allied Forces and this led to the division of Korea into two"temporary zones", with the United States administering the southern half of the peninsula and the Soviet Union taking over the area north of the 38th parallel (which is the line that divides the country in equal halves).

Now, we said 'temporary' because the country was eventually supposed to be restored as one and given back over to Korea to rule for themselves. What happened, however, was that the politics of the Cold War resulted in the 1948 establishment of two separate governments, North Korea and South Korea. The US installed a democratic government in the South, while the Soviets appointed Kim Il-Sung to become the leader of North Korea. South Korea became democratic, while North Korea became communist.

Sometime in 1950, North Korea invaded the South, using Russian tanks and weaponry. The North almost took over the South... but then the South retaliated and attacked back... and almost took over the North, until they retaliated. This went on and on for years, and during the Korean War (1950-1953), millions of North and South Korean civilians died and the three years of fighting throughout the nation effectively destroyed most cities (except some cities like Busan and our Masan, haha!). The war ended in a ceasefire agreement and thats where the two countries now find themselves: technically at war but with an ongoing 55 year ceasefire.

What Happened After The Divison?

Well, without getting into too much detail, it's pretty simple in my opinion. South Korea's form of government allowed it to prosper. South Korea, after sometime, became rich very quickly. They started doing a lot of international business and the economy boomed. This led to it becoming a modern, industrialized nation. There's everything here that you can find in any other industrialized nation... a nightlife, sky-rises, and tons of things to choose from. People here do business, party, and basically have the freedom to do what they want, when they want.

However, the North is quite different. Kim Il Sung's communist regime did things another way. People in the North idolize him (even to this day, after his passing) as the Great Leader, even though their country, from what I know, is poor and the people are starving. There's no name-brand anything there... there are no public businesses. The people have no access to the Internet, cannot use cell phones and are basically blocked off from the rest of the world. They only hear and learn what their government allows them to hear and learn. It didn't take long for Dawna and I to both see the anti-American attitude of the country. The few bookstores we were able to stop into were littered with anti-American propaganda. The people there more or less blame the Americans for the division of the country. Anyway, Kim Jung-Il (Kim Il-Sung's son) is now the ruler, and things haven't changed.

Onto our part of the trip.

Our Trip to Kaesong, North Korea:

We consider ourselves pretty lucky to have gone on this trip. This tour to Kaesong only opened up in December of 2007, so it has not been long at all that North Korea has allowed visitors into its country. So here is how we began our journey:

After a VERY tiresome week, we were ecstatic when that last ECC bell rang which welcomed the weekend. Gilad and I hopped on an overnight bus ride (on which neither of us slept due to crazy driving and loud music) and arrived in Seoul at 3 am. We wandered the streets until our tour started at 5:50 am. Right away we knew we had an incredible tour guide and so we went into this trip feeling very lucky (after a mediocre tour guide experience with the DMZ tour). We got onto our tour bus feeling very excited but really unsure of what to expect. We listened to the rules: Basically we were only allowed to go where we were told and take pictures of only what we were told, otherwise we would have to pay a hefty fine or even lose our camera. Specifically, with the pictures, we weren't allowed to take any photos of North Korean people, buildings or landscape. Basically, they don't want us bringing back any pictures that depict North Korean life in any way. So when you see our pictures, you'll understand why they are all focused around the sites we visited and nothing else. While it was frustrating not being able to really document the trip through pictures, this allowed us to spend time asking questions to our Korean guide, attempt at some conversation (through translation) with our accompanying North Korean guide, and to just take it all in.

After we had gotten the Visa business sorted out on the South side, we were on our way. The most surreal feeling was being on that bus as we passed through the street where South Korea officially became North Korea. Our bus was escorted by a jeep full of South Korean soldiers, and before you know it, they pull over and U-turn, while another jeep full of North Korean soldiers take over the escorting duties. Wow! We're in North Korea right now. Unbelievable! Right when we got into the North, we had to sort out some more Visa business. It was here we realized that all the North Korean people we saw were wearing identical pins on their shirts showing the face of their Great Leader, Kim-Il Sung. Everybody in the country must wear this pin at all times to show their dedication and alliance with their leader. Everyone has three pins to avoid any excuses. After the Visa process, we then proceeded to get back onto the bus, where three North Korean government officials joined us. There were two North Koreans at the front of the bus and one other at the back of the bus making sure that we didn't do anything bad, i.e. take pictures of the North from inside the bus. Immediately, our thoughts were, "Oh God, there are North Koreans on the bus! We need to get as close to them as possible." And we did... we got seats RIGHT NEXT TO THEM for the whole time which allowed us to converse with them about several things. This was definitely a highlight of the trip and an unbelievable moment for the two of us.

We visited a few historical sites, all of which were so-so on the interesting scale. You'll see those in the pictures below. However, the most interesting parts were in-between these sites where we traveled throughout the city, and through the window (and sometimes standing outside), were able to get a glimpse of the lives of the people in North Korea. How would we describe the landscape? To me, it appeared like what South Korea could have looked like 40-50 years ago.

Imagine living in a country with no cell phones or internet, owning a television or radio (only if you are very privileged of course) which only boasted about the greatness of the leader. Imagine having no electricity, big roads but no cars to drive, and having a curfew to follow each day. Try to think of what life would be like if you had someone over you controlling your every move. Then step a little further outside of the box and see how you would feel if you were making only 2 dollars a day no matter if you are a farmer or a doctor, were poor and starving, and you had a leader that lived in luxury. You would probably think that many of these people would feel angry or bitter no? This of course is not something we could ever know due to the restrictions the government places on foreign communication. However this is a nation that is socialized to believe in the supremacy and godliness of it's leader. They are blocked from the outside world and thus are unaware of most things that are not North Korean. They know nothing else and so how can we ever know how they truly feel. With the help of our tour guide who has actually befriended a few North Koreans throughout her numerous trips (a spectacular feat), we were able to hear about how true they stand to the government. How starvation is not an issue, and how they will find roots from the ground to eat if necessary in order to stay loyal.

There are no words to describe the feeling of seeing buildings that are old and falling apart, glass windows that look like flimsy plastic due to low constructive technology, huge roads with nothing to fill them, and people who look like they have stepped back in time. The people in North Korea are of course just like people all over the world, but the mystery that surrounds them will plague us forever. We want to be able to talk to them but we can't. We want to be able to live among them, but that is a dream that most likely will never materialize. Some people smiled and waved, most others however just looked straight ahead and went on with life.

As I got up this morning, had a popsicle and sat down to watch TV. I, of course, could not stop reflecting about our trip. The biggest issue that struck Gilad and I was the complete control the government has over its people. We were lucky to get to see the people we did, because for the most part, anywhere the bus went people were told to stay in their houses for that specific time. Life for them stopped, because we were continuing on with our trip. Soldiers were placed randomly throughout, to not only watch our buses, but to make sure no one violated the government's demands. It was definitely strange seeing soldiers standing in random fields or on the side of the road, staring, as we passed, with nothing to do. This is just something that is so hard to digest as a human being, with an active mind and body is not allowed to make any decisions for themselves, right down to the clothes they wear, the house they live in and the job they work.

We were told that students study for ten years in North Korea. Four years elementary, three middle school and three high school. After that, two in ten students are chosen to go to University. The others either begin the rest of their working life or they go to the military. We were also informed that the clothes people wear, and the food they eat are all provided by the government. There are a few government run department stores, grocery stores and barber shops but from the outside you could never tell the difference from those and the apartments that people live in. Why is it that there are these massive roads when people are only lucky enough to perhaps afford a bicycle? Why does the capital city turn on its electricity only when a foreigner arrives? Or how about having a subway system that no one can use? Gilad made an excellent point when he stated that if things are they way they are here (in Kaesong) what was life like where the tour buses weren't allowed to go. The government is trying to paint a face value picture for its few visitors but even through that we can only imagine the truth.

As was mentioned, Gilad and I were fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to talk with one of the less shy North Korean guides. Pearl (our South Korean tour guide) mentioned how this man refused to learn a word of Japanese for their Japanese visitors so as to stay true to his heritage. However, after a little time, he began to show interest in us and began asking many questions about Canada (which even though he is a Professor of Business, we believe he did not know where Canada was). This in turn allowed us to ask many questions about his daily life, his children and his favourite food. We left the trip by writing a note to him (which was translated by Pearl) thanking him for being there and consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to have some time with one on one contact. How many people have the opportunity to write a letter and witness a North Korean not only read it, but be happy with it and decide to keep it? We feel very fortunate that we were placed in that situation.

Anyways we know this is a really long post, and I know we were only there for a short time, but North Korea is a place you can never really imagine until you see it. Getting a small taste of it has left us hungry for more and we will continue to be intrigued and concerned with the happenings there. Not everything there is so desolate like it may seem. This is a country full of beauty. The landscape is incredible, with lush grass, rolling hills and beautiful mountains (one of which looks like a pregnant woman!) The people there may be hungry but that may give them all the more reason to form strong relationships and we can only imagine the kindness that may take place between one another.

We hope this won't be our last experience with North Korea, however the future is very unpredictable. Now, the question is, how do we set up a Global trip there?


The Pictures:


Kaesong City in North Korea. We found this picture on the Internet. We aren't allowed to take any pictures like this because it depicts the city. But this gives you a rough idea. Old, unkept. Most places aren't even this developed.


Didn't take this picture. Shows some of the housing.


Again, didn't take this picture. Shows a structure. Could be anything from an apartment, school, barbershop, goverment-run grocery stores... who knows. It all looks the same.


Didn't take this picture either... but gives you a good sense of the big roads and no cars driving on them. Ever. Very eery.


Didn't take this picture either... shows Kim Il-Sung, the Great Leader. A God-like figure to the North Koreans.


Last picture that we didn't take... but here's a North Korean soldier. They all dress like this. Looks kinda creepy with their outfit looking like they're 50 years old.


Twenty-four hours of no sleep makes you look like this.


What a declaration card looks like for when you return from North Korea.


Kaesong, North Korea THATAWAY... and Seoul, South Korea... THATAWAY.


In the North now, Dawna in the park.


Gilad standing in front of a huge plaque at the park... likely promoting one of the Kim's.


Always had to wear our visas and passports around our neck. Not doing so would result in a HUGE fine.


Sitting in front of a structure.


A beautiful waterfall at the park.


Korean inscription written in the rock.


Again, can't read it, but be some propaganda... or not.


Propaganda?


Dawna with the awesome tour gude.


Dawna with the awesome fiancee.


Housing at the park.


One of the many mountains to be seen anywhere in Korea, North or South.


A monk's house at the park.


Our tour guide explaining this mural at the park. The story goes that there was once this guy who was creating this mural and before he was finished, he found out that his mother was really sick... so he decided that he wanted to go visit her and stopped painting. However, whoever it was that he worked for told him that he couldn't leave until he finished it. So he spent some more time here finishing the painting. He eventually got word that his mother had died. He came to the conclusion that this art was the reason he couldn't visit his mother and so he felt cursed, so-to-speak. As a result, he decided to decapitate his own hand so he could never make art again. He modified his mural himself, to depict him without the hand.


A closer look at the mural.


A closer look at the man without the hand.


A temple at the top of the mountain of the park we had visited. This is no longer an official temple as religion is banned in this country. It's kept here, rather, as a monument to show the history and tradition of the country.


Inside one of the caves at the park.


Yea, that's right. I took a picture of a couple of North Koreans hanging out... you know... in North Korea. Yea, I was there.


A hotel in a traditional part of the city. They let us take this picture, because the hotel looks nice. Please don't confuse this with what the rest of the structures in the city look like. It's likely that nobody ever stays here.


Dawna in the village. Next up was lunch.


Dawna excited to eat lunch.


That's a lot of food! We felt pretty bad eating it at times, knowing the rest of the country likely never ate this way. You could tell the government put on this elaborate meal to make it seem like they aren't nearly as poor as they are.


The food itself was as traditional as all Korean meals. Rice and tons of side dishes. It was delicious. The kimchi was nowhere near as spicy as it is back in the South.


We were excited to try the beer, but they didn't have any left so rather, we got some Makgullee... the fermented rice milk. I've definitely had better... this must have been fermenting for a while.


A close-up shot of the windows of the housing. Although the house looks nice from the outside, you can see the poor-quality of these windows. They are glass but look like plastic. I took this right before we headed into our first bookstore... where we saw tons of Anti-American literature and several books written by the Kims. I wish I could have brought one back for souvenir purposes, but the South Korean rules state that you can bring anything anti-American or pro-North Korean back into the South. Oh well.


A picture showing off our huge tour group. I really wish it was MUCH smaller.


An interesting tree, for sure.


You can tell who the South Koreans are by the mandatory passport/visas they have to wear around their necks... and you can tell who the North Korean is by the mandatory pin she must wear on all of her clothes.


A closer view of the pin.


I was a little worried taking this picture because I thought I some of the background city would turn up in the photo, but it didn't. Otherwise, I'd be screwed. At the same time, I really wish the background did show up.


They don't stamp your passports. Rather, they stamp the separate Visa they give you... and then they take it back when you leave. Your passport really shows no proof that you were there. Anyway, here's the stamp. After this, we went back to the Visa station where the North Koreans checked everything we had, made sure we weren't smuggling anything out of their country, and checked EVERYONE'S digital cameras to make sure we weren't taking any pictures of things we weren't allowed to take pictures of.


Thirty-nine hours of no sleep makes you look like this.



There you go. We wish we could show you more, but North Korea is definitely not a place you want to risk getting in trouble in. We can honestly say that the twelve hours we spent in North Korea were the most enlightening twelve hours of our lives. A beautiful and very strange place. There's DEFINITELY more than meets the eye... we just wish we could figure out how to see it.

- Gilad and Dawna.